HILLSIDE TOWNS AND THE TWILIGHT ZONE --- DAY 10

We slept late in this amazing room.  I like this not being early risers bit.  It is a vacation.  :)  They had a decent breakfast buffet.  Only in a European hotel would have you have a huge Nutella jar.  (I didn’t have any though, I am taking this new diet seriously.  Whoever heard of going to Italy and losing weight or trying to?)

After packing up (my one overnight bag, thank you), we wound our way through the picturesque hills and toward Gubbio.  These trees were everywhere. 

(savage's artistic vision)

For some reason the ipod adaptor worked and I discovered that Savage had Justin Timberlake and Michael Jackson on his ipod -- now that was a surprise, someone I consider very worldly and smooth to have them on his playlist.. hum?  

Did I mention that European radio is quite different?  Just like at home, they have lots of talking (of course it is in Italian here).  The music is not good though.  I always got happy and stopped flipping stations when I heard Katy Perry and Lady Gaga (about the only artists I knew).   And yes they were extremely overplayed, the same songs at least twice in an hour.   One time in France, we hear the song White Flag 4 times in 30 minutes (and it’s a long song).  

I had brought a few CD’s with me, but not knowing what his musical tastes were, I brought my favorites and a few I thought he would like (was I incorrect).  The first one Savage chose was my all time favorite -- Bon Jovi “Slippery When Wet”.  I always wanted to see them in concert, and that lucky prat had and he was from and living in New Zealand at the time.  He didn’t really take to the others I had brought -- Willie Nelson, Little River Band and Train - not his idea of good listening.  

I did get “schooled” in his music when the ipod adaptor was working -- I liked Shapeshifter’s Twin Galaxies and Tiki Taane (I refer to him as Rikki Tikki Tavi, wasn’t that a Rudyard Kipling story?).  My big question is who doesn’t like Elvis, but likes Justin Timberlake?  odd one.....  Let’s just say that on this Italian road trip, I was missing my satellite radio -- where’s the Jimmy Buffett station when you need it. 

We found our way to Gubbio, a hilltop town north of Perugia.  It was amazing.  We had to park at the base and then climb through the streets to the top.  I think Savage was liking this place - he even had me checking out the hotels to see if we could get rooms, it was so neat. (This was an omen and we should have gone with both of our gut instincts and stayed here but more on that later.....)  On the way into town there was a large gallery with vendors out (reminded me of Santa Fe, where they just lay out blankets to showcase what they have).  I wasn’t “allowed” to faff about and shop until we got to the top.  I saved my shopping time allowance for then. 

There were quite a few stairs and yes, I lagged behind a little.  Thankfully my knees held up.  At the top there was a massive openness/plaza -- and on either side a museum with fleur de lis ironwork (of course it was closing for their long lunch so we didn’t get to see it) and a big hotel (looked expensive).  So we meandered through the streets and local shops.  

Lots of the shops had beautiful pottery, I loved the ones with burnt red/browns and dragons (I found a great little piece that I could fit in my luggage).  They even had an artist painting tiles in her shop.  I could stay here a while but we had things to do.  

one of my favorite pics on this trip!!!

Even further up the hill, there was an old church we stopped in.  I always pray in every church we went to. Savage isn’t a Christian, but he is spiritual in his own way (even though I doubt he would admit it).  I optimistically think he was praying or at least in silent meditation when we went in all of these churches (probably praying I would be quiet for an hour for him).


It is weird to be going in churches to “look” at them from a tourist point of view.  It always freaks me out a little.  One of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen --- was a great little Christopher Wren church in London near where I worked -- I would go there some days after work or during and just sit and think.  (Something I would never do at home -- Episcopalian/Methodists just don’t do that.)

The Gubbio Catholic Church had a really tall ceiling but not a lot of seats for people.  On the outside there were huge flags/banners like ones you would see in medieval storybooks.  Near the church was a garden with a kiosk selling panini sandwiches.  As he had grabbed some bread, cheese and raw meat on the lower level (just like a savage to have raw meat  ;) -- ha ha),  I got a panini and ate in the garden.  It had a great overlook of the hillside too, just like the large plaza below.  

Passed by more shops -- found my knight in shining armor:

When we got back down to the bottom, the vendors in the gallery were all packed up.  There was a church down there also that had a statue of a soldier out front.  

Our parking lot didn’t seem to want to let us go (another sign we should have stayed), the machine wasn’t working to pay so the gate wouldn’t open.  It was so funny to watch these Italians get irate and call on their cell phones to the company and gripe them out in Italian.   I was actually understanding a little of what they were saying.  Finally they figured out how to open the gate, and about 10 cars got out (us included) and no one had to pay.  

Off through the beautiful countryside we went.  The fields were beautiful and we saw lots of hillside towns.  There was a bad rainstorm we hit, and I guess these people don’t know how to drive in the rain.  They were all stopped on the side of the road.  I woke up Savage and he asked me stop too???? It hailed on us as well.  For some reason I got tickled and couldn’t stop laughing.  He found my stash of US food and dug in -- peanut butter cheese crackers, nuts and Oreos.  (See some of my overpacking came in handy after all.....)

There was some road construction and a wreck and we had a weird detour/ diversion.  It took forever for us to get south (remember the radio sucked too and our ipod adaptor didn’t work well if there was radio station interference -- I had brought the auxiliary cable but there was no plug in this mini Mercedes Benz -- C’est la vie).  This was a true test of our friendship and ability to put up with each other and I tried to be good and keep my mouth shut and not prattle on about things.  I promise I tried and actually I didn't really want to say anything as I was a little sick of being on the road too.    

When we got to the Castel Volturno area, we started seeing slums and major trash on the road.  This area is a little north of Naples on the coast.  It was supposed to be a Holiday Inn Resort and on the internet it looked very nice..... OMG the area was awful.  People told us that there was a huge difference between Northern and Southern Italy and we were finding out how correct they were.  Last time we were in Italy we stayed in the northern part mostly and hit the lovely lakes and towns up there.  This was going to be an adventure. 

Before now, I haven’t really found Italian drivers to be any crazier than the drivers in Houston, Dallas, LA, Atlanta, or New Orleans --- until now.  Here these folks didn’t know what a lane was and the motor scooters (and a few mopeds) scooted in between the cars.  Thankfully Savage was driving here and I was navigating.  He said it was even worse in Indonesia and other countries he had been to (yes,  he is much more traveled than I am). 

in the land of Porsche, this just doesn't seem right....

Tons of signs for mozzerella di bufala, almost every few feet there was a billboard for a place you could buy it or see it made or bath in it or whatever. The “beach” towns here were awful -- trashy trashy.  My stomach even started hurting from looking at this place (should have been a sign).

When we finally found our “compound” I was very happy to be there and off the road, but didn’t know if I wanted to stay (note to self, next time if I feel this way leave immediately and just eat the bill -- why we stayed astounds me).  I checked in while Savage found a parking space,  I had a weird feeling at the door and we brought everything in from the car (our trunk wasn’t really a trunk but a hatchback with a small cover that anyone could see into).  Thankfully we were only booked for two nights, that wouldn’t be too long would it?

While checking in, there was a good looking police officer there.  Initially I thought this was for private security reasons.  I was to find out later the “real truth”.   We used their free internet - the only good part.  On the internet it said ---this was an area of immigrants -- mostly from Nigeria and other African countries and supposedly this was an area where they smuggled drugs in.   Why didn't we look at this BEFORE we booked it?

The hotel was very nice, but felt like the Twilight Zone, I could hear Rod Serling in my head “The young travelers arrived in the late afternoon, the parking lot was mostly deserted except for a few carabinieri vehicles.....”  Our room was down a very very long hallway and up the elevator.  It was a huge room and a huge bathroom with beautiful painted tile floors and a great looking bathtub (no Croatian Torture Device here).  Our room had a small balcony that overlooked one of the pools and a weird harbor looking area with cranes -- outside our compound.  

They didn’t have a real restaurant where you could order food (I would kill for a US diner, heck I would have killed for a Taco Bell at this point and I don’t eat there at home anymore).  It was a fixed menu -- buffet all you could eat.  We got seats out on the lanai -- outdoor deck and had a great view of the sunset, but my tummy still wouldn’t stop hurting.  I was adventurous and did try some weird foods.  Let’s just say this buffet was not a Ryan’s buffet.  Cute police officers here too. (hum?)

more male capri pants -- just wrong.com 

It looked like there weren’t that many people staying here, but there were a lot of French tourists.   I wanted to see a beach and drug him out toward the water, it was a huge golf course and he just sat down in his shorts and jandals (aka flip flops) on the fairway and waited on silly me.  I couldn’t find a beach anyway -- surprise surprise - there wasn’t one.  This would be interesting.  Other than our final destination the rest of the day had been great -- I definitely want to go back to Perugia and Gubbio one day.  

We finally got back to our room and crashed after a long day on the road.  Rod Serling “The travelers naively went to sleep in their room .....”

JAZZ FEST ITALIAN STYLE ---DAY 9

Our last look at the Italian Riveria :( We are going inland now.  It was wonderful to visit with Helen and her family.  I would have loved to have stayed longer, but we had places to see and adventures to have (and to try and survive the road trip).  I really appreciated the home stay (and female conversation) and can’t wait to come back and visit later.  Maybe next time I can see their posh Milanese home. 

On our way out of town, we ran by the COOP grocery store and picked up supplies.  I do like how Savage travels, picnics are cheaper and easier than searching for restaurants sometimes.  The focacceria, where we went with Helen, was packed with people but we got a number and waited -- a few minutes later we had fresh focaccia pizza.  Drove up to a lonely street and parked and ate.  (cheap meal)

Started our road trip (remember Savage isn’t good on long road trips, but I think he is well and appears to be back to himself).  Both of us have a fascination with motor scooters.  He used to have one in New Zealand (and he claims to have had a wicked helmet, but I haven’t seen any photos for proof). And I would love to ride one -- preferably a Barbie Hot Pink one :) -- I would want a really pretty helmet.  I kept calling them mopeds and I got educated on the difference between mopeds and motor scooters.  We stopped in Pontedera at the Piaggo plant but it was closed up tighter than a drum (it was Sunday, what were we thinking?).  We can return the next trip (like we did to the McDonald’s).  

The town was very industrial and not much else there.  Not too far of a drive to Perugia -- but we had a problem finding the Holiday Inn.  It was in a residential area and up on a beautiful hill (and far from the town center).  Checked in -- used my points so we got a cheap room.  At the front desk they told me about their local Jazz Fest --- I adore live music and think Savage does too.  We unloaded the car (and I am all ready for my road trip packing -- ie only taking in one small bag-- yeah I am out of the doghouse for my overpacking).  

The room was great -- two very soft twin beds, a wonderful A/C and a clean big bathroom.  The weather outside was warm and we had been in the car awhile.  Savage ran out immediately to the pool.  I was a little slow following him but got out there too.  I don’t think I have been in a bathing suit in over a year.  I am not the best swimmer but I love to float and relax in the solitude of the water.  The pool had a large waterfall type area to it, you could stand under it or float in the pool underneath it. 

The pool overlooked the valley and you could see the town center.  I love this area, it was beautiful.  I wish we had booked two nights here, but we had planned on heading south.  After relaxing by the pool area, we got showered and dressed.  Totally refreshed, we headed into town.  I was driving at first but needed a navigator.  So we switched.  

Savage is an excellent driver (don’t get the big head boy, I am a good driver too -- accidents or not) and I can find my way just about anywhere (not to toot my own horn, but I am a great navigator and love maps -- paper ones are the best FYI).   Between the two of us, we ended up in the town center area -- lots of one way roads, pedestrian streets, and extremely narrow streets.  It was kind of fun with the race car driver sweeping through the streets -- it reminded me of the time we were in San Gimignano and drove through the pedestrian zones.  I even took a video of him driving through the streets.  Quite fun, and to think, his natural side of the car is our passenger seat and the wrong side of the road (that’s a whole other saga).  

We finally found a very odd parking garage -- it was on the side of the mountain/hill and looked like it was an old building.  We had to give them the keys and leave it -- duh? we didn’t even get a claim ticket.  We are two very experienced travelers.  WTH were we thinking leaving a loaded car in a weird city and giving some random guy the keys.  Then had to hike up the mountain to the top.    

Tons of people out and stages set up in different areas.  In one of the plaza areas they had a massive museum with lots of stairs -- fest goers were camped out on the stairs.  Pedestrian streets everywhere with great looking shops (again, why weren’t we staying? My retail therapy nerves were getting tingles).  

The sun was setting and we tried to find a place to watch the sunset.  How did he know that is my favorite thing to see on a trip?  We were laughing most of the evening -- stealing each others “artistic license” -- taking pictures of everything.  I won that night with the best shots.  How could you take a bad picture in a town like this?

my favorite sunset shot :)

They had little bands just set up in the streets/alleyways.  Great music abounded here.  More like French Quarter Fest than the Jazz and Heritage Fest.  

We found the main festival area and they had a food court set up -- I love festival food.  But we didn’t try the “yambalaya” but I was getting hungry walking around.  A great ledge here overlooking the area-- took lots of photos.  This area had a stage set up and  had interesting fashions around it.  We were getting the motherlode of people watching here. 

Savage is a bad influence, he is worse than I am about pointing out fashion offenses and he likes to take pics of them.  I have a feeling we will have quite a few pics from this trip.  I don’t know who was worse taking the piss out of each other tonight. 

I just don't get it with these skirts....

Tonight was the finals of the World Cup and the fans were out in force everywhere.  Most restaurants we saw had big screen TV’s out for the patrons.  We ended up at a little restaurant in an alleyway that had outside seating. The weather had cooled down and was the perfect pleasant temperature out.  

We found seats outside and had a cute waiter (of course he had the obligatory chain on too).  The owner appeared and was a little drunk.  He tried to take our order also.  The meal was very good and I fell in love with Perugia.  Mark Knopfler was coming tomorrow night (just my luck).  

The Europeans were out in force -- Spain vs. the Netherlands were in the finals and there were fans everywhere.  We got extremely lost in the maze of streets trying to find our parking garage.  I was glad Savage was there, it was creepy out because it was late and the game ended so people had gone home. 


Inside the elevator:

We finally found the car and luckily the guy was there with the keys.  A very posh Porsche was next to our little Benz with a tarp over it. Guess we were in a safe place.  Had to use the credit card to escape the garage.  

The funniest part of the night was us (navigator was driving) trying to find our way to the main road -- in the dark -- and very little gas.  If we had a camera on us, it would be an episode of the Three Stooges, but there were only two of us -- so I guess it would have been more like Laurel and Hardy.  God must have taken pity on us, because there was a gas station right there for us and it took credit cards (most others close early in these smaller towns).  

Hooked up on the main road and through the tunnel back to our hotel on the hill.  Great quiet A/C (sorry Helen, I am from the South and that is a necessity for me), soft beds and it was so quiet.  My jet lag was gone and my travel buddy was well and his old charming Kiwi self again (thank goodness, I don't know if I could handle sickly Savage the whole trip).