How could anyone say they have a bad time in a city with the nickname like “The Big Easy”? But yes, there are some people who don’t enjoy one of the U.S.’s most European Cities. I am not one of them.
My friends and I had a long weekend there and we tried to be adventurous ---- could we experience New Orleans as we never had before -- eat at places we had never eaten at and see places we had never seen. As New Orleans is a culinary treasure, this isn’t difficult. I have been all over the world and the best food ever is in New Orleans.
We started our eating adventure at Mosca’s on the Westbank. Allegedly this was a mafia haunt of long ago. They said that more bodies were buried out back than in a New Orleans cemetery. Didn’t see any bodies but there were bags at the front entranceway. This was out on Highway 90 in Westwego in a white clapboard structure. Looked like three rooms with tables -- not many people can fit in here.
No hostess stand, so you give your name and party number to a waiter and then park yourself at the old bar. Definitely a New York Little Italy feel to the place -- down to the jukebox with classic Sinatra tunes, the New Orleans accents at the tables, and the garlic in the air. And the place was cash only, go figure.
Our ringleader, though crippled, managed to order lots of food for the table that we ate family style --- Crab Salad, Spaghetti and Meatballs, Chicken al a Grande, Shrimp Mosca, Mosca’s Sausage, and Oyster Mosca (I have only tried oysters once so this was an adventure in itself to try them again). It was delicious --- and to top it off Pineapple Fluff and homemade cheesecake.
Had the pleasure of driving over the “in renovation” Huey P. Long Bridge -- as I don’t care for bridges too much this was a very anxious few minutes. But I made it safely over the bridge both ways -- you can recite the Lord's Prayer at least twice while driving over it.
After dropping off all the locals, we settled in at the Hotel Monteleone (classic Nola hotel). One friend had to retire early so the rest of us hit the Quarter. After trying a few of our favorite haunts, we ended up at the Royal Sonesta (supposedly a “respectable” hotel, right?). The hotel bar had a classic New Orleans burlesque show -- with Trixie Minx as the headliner.
Another Nola experience I had never had. All I could think of was -- is this what Bourbon’s entertainment used to be? Before all the full on strip shows, there was the tease. It was a hoot. I loved the fans. The girls were not the prettiest, nor the most voluptuous -- but their confidence and their style made it a great show. They didn’t take it all off. If they can strip some of it off, I am so going to rock that not so skimpy polka dot bikini in Hawaii this year. Maybe I can get a fan for the beach.
My first night to come in at 2:00 a.m. Maybe this old lady can hang with the young folks after all.
Another unique experience -- the Historic New Orleans Tours meet at the Cafe Beignet at 10:00 a.m. for their cemetery tour. Anna Ross Twichell was our tour guide -- she was a statuesque native with a lovely uptown New Orleans voice and manner -- and she knew her history too. Met an interesting couple from Kansas -- they were staying in Gulf Shores for a month and had come over to Nola for a couple of days. Once here they realized they needed more time.
Our first stop was the Old Mortuary Church on Rampart. It’s now Our Lady of Guadalupe Chapel, with beautiful Italian Mosaics and St. Expedite at the door. This is the Catholic church that is used as a base for the New Orleans Police Department and the Fire Department.
We traveled on to St. Louis Cemetery Number One, with it’s famous or infamous permanent (somewhat) residents. Anna Ross told the group about her interesting wedding gift -- her mother in law gave the new couple a crypt in a cemetery -- she said this was an appropriate and prized wedding present in New Orleans. (But in her case, the mother in law didn’t want to be buried with her -- in her divorce their daughter got the crypt.)
She showed us the older crypts and the ones that had been restored. She explained the history of graves in New Orleans and the way they shoved the bones around (one year and a day after the last burial) and the caveau where they end up. Also she explained exactly what a New Orleans funeral/celebration was -- the first line, the second line and when the spirit is cut from the earth.
We saw Nicolas Cage’s interesting crypt, Bernard de Marigny’s, Homer Plessy’s, the Italian Tomb which appeared (without a permit) in Easy Rider, and Marie Laveau’s. Also there was a lovely crypt that is dedicated to New Orleans musicians and their families. (Anna Ross was instrumental in establishing this.)
She is part of a historic preservation group that is restoring the crypts and grounds. It is a shame that vandals jump the walls and desecrate the crypts. But some are getting restored and look great. Some of the older ones are painted bright colors.
the protestant part was in the area that is sinking..... interpret that as you might..
really a Hand Grenade before noon and in a cemetery -- you must not be from around here....
We wandered down to Congo Square near Louis Armstrong Park. Not the safest area to go into, even during daylight hours. On Rampart St., we ended the tour at the Voodoo Temple and Cultural Center, owned and operated by Your Servant of Spirit -- Priestess Miriam. As Voodoo and the concept creep me out, this was not really my thing. The priestess was an interesting person -- in her speech that was mostly incoherent, there were some gems about how you don’t always ride the same log down the river -- and needing to change logs was not a bad thing. I took that to mean that during our lives we lead many different lives and we need to be open to that experience. --- My Baptist Mammaw was spinning in her grave when I entered the "temple".
And around the corner was Marie Laveau’s cottage -- it’s the green one. The Decadence Shoppe provided a great lunch -- the club sandwich was huge and we should have split it.
One of my all time favorite things to do on a beautiful fall day is to wander around the Quarter in my sunhat and look at the pretty homes and interesting people. (And hitting a bookstore or antique store here and there -- no new lampstands and I didn't buy anything at Sterling Sylvia.) We even made it all the way to Frenchman Street -- I have never been down there at night and would love to check out those clubs too one day.
anyone for a ride?
two enemies joining forces in New Orleans -- an Aggie and a Longhorn
the guy couldn't drive it and it was painful to watch
one of the more disturbing pieces I have seen down here
Lalaurie House
a Louisiana critter
That night my friends and I had a group of 14 at Arnaud’s. One of friends was having a birthday (she's the youngest in the group). It’s always fun to hit a fancy restaurant with a fun krewe of people. Somehow we hit the Blacksmith Shop, the Carousel and Pat O’s before retiring at approximately 2:30 a.m. How would we wake up early tomorrow?
Somehow we got up early -- an old treasured friend from school and I went to Dante’s Kitchen in the Riverbend area. Excellent food, if my tummy hadn’t rumbled so much from the night before. Also we were disturbed to see a girl who could have been us 15 years ago -- she was reciting all our old haunts as where she had been the night before -- as she sat there in her boxers, t-shirt and flip flops. Oh to grow up into an adult.... It was great to visit with her and catch up. It’s been too long between visits. Her boys are getting so grown up.
Unfortunately I had to work for a few hours. But the treat that night was Upperline -- in the Garden District with another old friend -- one of my childhood best friends and my prom date :) It was great to see him and his friend. Upperline was a dining experience. He always knows how to show a girl a good time.
Joanne, the proprietress, was 100 if she was a day. She had bright purple shoes and a black and red dress. Her round tortoise shell glasses and white hair gave a very eccentric look to her. She loved my pretty Australian purple dress. (Two nights so far to dress up -- a belle has to live it up sometime.)
I had the tasting menu -- duck and andouille gumbo, turtle soup, duck etouffee, roasted duckling, shrimp and grits, fried green tomatoes and shrimp remoulade --- and bread pudding (of course). Yes it was very tasty.
The next day was mostly work --- there was a mass at St. Louis Cathedral (as a nonCatholic even I think it is awesome) and a lunch at Mr. B’s Bistro. I have a tough job.
I even got to wander down to my favorite gallery -- the Peter O’Neill gallery ---- http://www.oneillgallery.com/ and got their coffee table book.
That night we had a great get together at the Historic Supreme Court Building. Another night to dress up fancy -- three nights in a row -- is that a hat trick?
My charming escort and I ended up dining at the Italian Barrel near the U.S. Mint -- excellent gnocchi, tomato soup and tiramisu. The atmosphere was great -- very Italian. The owner is from Verona, so it’s authentic. Great food, great atmosphere and great conversation.
Our evening ended with a stroll though the Quarter and a stop at a few local establishments --- is this for the summertime?
My last meal in Nola was at Slice -- a unique pizza joint uptown on Magazine St. (a very trendy part of town now). Yes, you can order the pizza by the slice -- pineapple and cheese is my favorite.
Another successful trip to New Orleans and this time it was focused on good food at restaurants I haven’t frequented before. Instead of walking 3 hours this week I will have to walk 7 plus.
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