Monday, November 7, 2011

PRETTY PAINTINGS, JEFF DAVIS’ DESK, AND HOECAKES

Had to relocate hotels as my travel buddies were on their way here today.  I had another Ethiopian taxi driver take me and my one bag --- yes -- to all of my friends, I had ONE suitcase (and my pillow, of course).  He went down New York Avenue and there was tons of construction.  
I went from a 5 star hotel three blocks from the White House to the Washington Center Hotel, which looked nice but was not in the best area of town.  We were only two blocks from Union Station.  The coolest thing about it was that when you were driving up you could see the Capitol from the street. 
It was quite a cool day and overcast, the cab driver said it was supposed to rain in the morning -- the consummate tourist I am -- no umbrella or rain coat, duh.  Hopefully, the travel gods would be on my side.  
From my new hotel, I walked toward the National Art Gallery.  Along the way I encountered the nicest policeman (was he drinking or something?).  He asked about my day and if I was enjoying myself here etc.  It was so refreshing to see someone happy with their job and having a good day.  So far, most people in DC are acting this way.  
Wonder what this guy/gal does for a living?


Newseum -- one of my all time favorite museums -- has the Pulitzer Prizewinning photos

At the National Art Gallery, there was a nice security guard I asked directions of -- he showed me a short cut to the side entrance -- goes to show, it never hurts to ask with a smile on your face.  
There are two buildings - the West and East Building, in front of the West Building there were glass mini pyramids that reminded me of the Louvre in Paris.  

Inside it was unexpectedly massive, the information desk lady told me of the areas to see for French Impressionists.  I went downstairs -- they have any underground walkway between the two buildings.  Grabbed a muffin (thank goodness as I wasn’t going to get lunch until 4:30).   Downstairs there was a gift shop and large cafeteria.  
I decided to do the older part first -- ie the West Building.  There were tons of different areas -- American, Danish, French, Italian etc.  I love the John Singer Sargent paintings.  I happened upon a captivating Albert Bierstadt’s Lake Lucerne -- the big details - dramatic mountains and lovely lake -- the small details - sheep and campers and their fires.  I stayed at this one for a while, which is unusual for me in a museum.



Sargent

the memorial to the Mass 54th regiment 

Lake Lucerne

the sky was amazing

doesn't he look like a bobblehead?

Capri, when do I get to see it in person?

In some of the rooms there were artists painting from paintings.  Their easels were the old wooden kind on wheels.  There was a da Vinci here on a wooden panel with a painting on the back also.   My favorite that was a complete surprise was the Samuel Morse “Gallery of the Louvre”. I had read an article about it in the Smithsonian magazine lately and to see it in person was a treat.  Just imagine, if this man had made it as a painter where would our world be today -- he invented the telegraph and Morse Code. 

The Gallery had beautiful little courtyards and I stumbled upon the sculpture gallery.  They had two of the Degas Ballerinas, but more importantly they had several Rodin pieces and he is my favorite.  I go to that museum almost every time I am in Paris.  His work is so classically understated and I love the way he does the hands.  



do you think this is a second wife? or a nurse?











I am not too keen on the darker Italian and Netherlandish paintings, I never have been.  Also I find it funny, that in most portraits of men, there are books, riding crops, horses or something like they are working or useful.  In most portraits of females there are children or harps, like they sit around all day doing nothing. 

In the Italian area, there was a beautiful courtyard set up with murals on the walls.  Even the lighting made it look a little like it was outdoors. 
Raphael :)
guess?  any takers? this one had eyes too
I finally made it through the West Building after seeing the Harry Callahan photography exhibit -- loved it.  As I once developed film into slides, I know how they used to alter photos with exposure/processing.  His work was very different.


On the way into the East Building, you see the underside of the mini-pyramids -- a fountain that appears to come into the underground area.  Also to get to the East Building you have to get on a moving walkway and go through a really cool tunnel of lights. 


I am not a huge fan of Modern Art, but there is some of it I can appreciate.  Jackson Pollock stumps me though. 






In the East Building also was an exhibit called “ The Invention of Glory: Afonso V and the Patrana Tapestries”. I have been in lots of castles, museums and antique galleries, these tapestries were amazing.  Larger and better restored than any I had seen before.  
I had to leave to meet my hometown friend for my surprise in Congress.  I trekked over to Union Station and to hook up with him at the escalators.  


very old school

it was a shoe store  -- and I didn't buy anything.

Then we walked back to the Capitol. He showed me the amazing new visitor center that was excavated and built beside the building.  All I could say was “beautiful and which contractor got this job?”.  It is an amazing building and allows the general public much better access than they used to have by allowing more people in.  



We went through the middle and then through the “authorized personnel only” door through the maze to the Sergeant at Arms office (they have a really awful view).  In the hall we almost ran into (literally)  Terrance Gainer, the present Sergeant at Arms.  He was very courteous.  In the office, we got our “Gold Ticket” gallery passes (but as they were not in session, we couldn’t go sit in the gallery and listen).  One of the workers there, I guess, thought I was sweet and got us a tour at 3:00 with an assistant Sergeant at Arms, Joe from Chicago.  




In the meantime, we went back through the maze to watch the film -- awesome film of the development of our country, government and how it is supposed to run.  Maybe our Congressmen should have to watch this once a month as a refresher? 





Then they broke us up into smaller groups and our tour guide took us to the crypt.   This is one of the lower levels that has the vaulted ceilings and large fat columns that support the upper floors and the rotunda.  
At the Capitol there are 2 statues from each state with their famous “people” and some of those statues are in this area.  There is a collection for the National Statuary Hall, but as they don’t all fit because of weight and size the Architect of the Capitol places them throughout the building.  
In the crypt is a white star which is the “center” of Washington, DC and all the streets are numbered and lettered from there -- A, B, C, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc.  This is where George and Martha Washington were going to be interred but this did not occur.  


The old Supreme Court Chamber was open for us to walk through but it was so dark you couldn’t really take a good photo -- very small and dark and not anything like the magnificent courtroom they have now. 
We trudged up more stairs to the Rotunda room and the view will take your breath away.  It’s like a weird combination of the Pantheon and the Sistine Chapel in one -- you have the ceiling and then the Apotheosis of George Washington (which means making someone divine or god like, which is odd because he was just a man).  There were statues here.  Explorers and our country’s history were recognized in paintings and along the sides of the upper walls in monochromatic like detail.




Our next stop was the old Senate floor where John Quincy Adams sat. There were more statues up here, including Huey P. Long, who was from my state.  It was very lit and had a half dome ceiling in a pale pinkish color.  The acoustics where very good and you would say something on one side and it would be heard on the other.  Spooky and not good for politicians :).  





As it was time for our special tour, we left the group and went back to the Sgt at Arms office.  When we got there Mr. Gainer was there chatting with some folks,  he said “Hi and Bye” to us as well.  There was a Chicago couple with their two 6 and 8 year old daughters going on the tour with us.  
It was led by Joe (asst Sgt at Arms -- 4 years), a former federal law enforcement officer from Chicago -- I can only IMAGINE the stories this guy could have to tell.  He was a good looking 60 year old man with sparkling intelligent blue eyes and he was a hoot.  
Rich (a tall asst Sgt at Arms -- 10 years) offered to take us all to “Washington’s Tomb” which is UNDER the crypt -- sweet!  Here we saw where they used to keep the catafalque and where the Washingtons were supposed to be interred.  We learned the difference between being buried “in state” and “in honor” (and later “in repose”) -- it has a lot to do with who stands watch and supervises.  We were under the white star. 


We proceeded upstairs to the Senate floor -- the reception room where the lobbyist in the old days used to be received was very elegant and had a beautiful chandeliers and intricate detailed molding work along the ceiling and walls (which was under renovation somewhat -- they were starting it).
Then there was a hallway where the Senate pages (juniors in high school) and guards where hanging out.  To be on the actual floor of the Senate was a very awe inspiring experience.  There was so much history here and he told us so much ---
  1. Desks are handed down between states -- Jefferson Davis’ desk had a mark from a bayonet from an idiot Union soldier until the Sergeant at Arms stopped them from destroying the desks.  
  2. Desks are placed on sides of the room by party and seniority (so they are moved every so often) -- two beautiful roll top desks (which were both open) for the “party representatives” -- they could have laptops too -- of the few that were allowed in there. 
  3. Daniel Webster’s desk was not “updated” and it has stayed the same since then.  Some were redone and when new states were added those are newer desks.  Beautifully crafted and well maintained.  
  4. Joe showed us where everyone sat and how the Gallery operates.  There is a public area where people can come “first come first serve” and watch for 10 minutes at a time. 
  5. They take the vote and roll call by a handwritten tally sheets -- no electricity needed for this.  I love the old school approach.  Electronic counters can mess up. 
  6. Joe told us of Senator Robert C. Byrd lying “in repose” on the Senate floor -- I guess he just didn’t want to leave. 
  7. How the Sergeant at Arms job wasn’t to keep people out but to go round the Senators up and keep them in. 
Those were just some of the tidbits I could remember. 
We went for a ride on the Senate Subway and saw John Kerry getting on the Subway before us.  To the kids this was the best part.  


We ended up in the deep bowels of the Capitol where we saw the bathtub that was installed to allow the members to wash off after riding long distances to get there. 





Do you think the Congressmen read these?





After that amazing tour we finally got lunch ---Spike Mendelsohn’s Good Stuff Eatery and We the Pizza -- we went for the burgers, rosemary/thyme fries and milkshakes -- chocolate and strawberry -- I got the chocolate one of course and my friend the strawberry one.   They had flavored mayonnaise which was interesting to eat with the fries -- I felt like I was in Belgium eating frites out of a newspaper not in DC. 



I want to personally thank my sweet wonderful old friend for showing me my nation's legislative branch and where he worked.  It was a memorable experience.  Glad to know you are loving your job and where you are now in life.  You are doing great and I am so proud of you.

Couldn’t find a cab so I hoofed it back to the hotel to meet up with my travel buddies.  They were tired and we relaxed and unpacked in our new hotel -- oddly enough I got the ninth floor again.  This was a much newer hotel and had been renovated recently.  We had down comforters and nice sheets.  The water pressure left a lot to be desired but you can’t have everything.  
When we got out for dinner -- around 8:00 we ended up at Art and Soul, which was one block from our hotel.  Our worst meal in DC and I normally don’t complain about food.  The decor was very modern and nice but they serve Pepsi products not Coke products (and they don’t tell you when you order, ugh).  The menu was fancy but had hoecakes and homemade mac and cheese (the best things we had to eat).  It’s not good when they even mess up a chocolate dessert.  The green apple sorbet was tasty and got the taste out of my mouth of the rest of the meal.  My friend said the duck dumplings were almost inedible due to the toughness of the duck.  Maybe we were just tired?  But I know I wouldn’t go back nor recommend it to anyone.  







We were so exhausted we were in the bed asleep by 10:00--- party animals that we are.

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